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Reply with quote  #16 
That carb uses a standard 4150 gasket on that side. 
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Patrick James-President
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Reply with quote  #17 
Idle screws are just shy of 1 turn out.Should I increase the IAB to get the screws out ti 1.5 to 1.75?

I also disassembled the carbs in prep to enlarge port 2.The bowl gaskets tore a little and the block gaskets tore in half.I have scraped a few but always left some type of mark,,,,so my dumb question is what is the best way to remove the gasket remnants without scratching the mounting surface??

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Reply with quote  #18 
Soak a little carb cleaner on them with a rag, that makes them fall right off.  Use motor oil on the new ones, that helps with pump fuels these days.  

If it cruises good and clean, then leave the bleeds alone, if its a bit rich at cruise, go .010 larger on the primary side bleeds.

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Reply with quote  #19 
Thank you as always! I'm getting close.....
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Reply with quote  #20 
You are welcome!!
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Reply with quote  #21 
Opened up port 2 today.While cleaning the main body I finally noticed the mods you did to the blade,,super cool and pretty much eliminated the tip in issue! We will get these 100% VERY soon!
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Reply with quote  #22 
Super cool!!
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Reply with quote  #23 
Enlarged port 2 to .070 from the verified .060. Just went for a test and the problem has not improved,may have gotten  worse but with the chilly temp the intake air temp was 120*.What would be my next step?? rolling along at 1500 to 1800 RPM when I tip it in it lean spikes to 21/22 AFR and the engine feels like it shut off,let off the throttle and it comes back to idle.Stabbing it at 1500 RPM it still stumbles[confused]

Idle is 23/13 for ARF.
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Reply with quote  #24 
We need to put the air to fuel meter away and listen to the engine. It’s either getting too much fuel or too little. It sounds lean but you just added some fuel and you think it got worse. That doesn’t make sense unless it’s rich and you made it worse by adding fuel. Reduce or increase your idle air bleeds by about .010 (that’s your master control). See how the engine responds to that change not what the meter says.
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Reply with quote  #25 
I hear you Pat,but my testing is not done at a track.Nearest one is 100 miles away.I can get WOT by the middle of 2nd into high gear. I hope to get a warn enough day to get out and make a few hits!
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Reply with quote  #26 
OK, get me some of that info and we can make some tuning calls.
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Reply with quote  #27 
Found the time to go for a ride.By the time I was able to get rolling and put some heat in the engine the air temp was in the high 30's.I did not jet up for such great air.I also had the 4 lb pulley on which is 12/13 % under driven.I find these carbs to prefer more velocity like one to one with the blower pulleys .
  Anyway,when I went for a test drive it went lean and started to nose over and I got out of the throttle. On the way back in cruise mode at 23/2500 rpm at tip in my vacume gauge went to ZERO at tip in......I will wait for better weather conditions.
   I noticed in another thread about the bowl and blocks gaskets they needed to be enlarged.Do I need to watch that as well?
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Reply with quote  #28 
Yea these are big carbs so we definitely want the blower spinning so we can get UP on the boosters.

Get an eye on your fuel pressure too.  If it drops more than .75 of a lb from idle setting to wot we have to fix that.

Those dont need enlarged BUT it doesnt hurt either.



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Reply with quote  #29 
Have been thinking alot about W/M injection so I could spin the blower faster w/o needing more than pump gas for street driving.Correct me if I'm wrong but a CR of 15:1 will run fine on the pump  while under no load and cruising in a vacume environment and light exceleration.I will use more octane during the tuning to get the carbs right with boost then install W/M.Do you have any rec's on how much timing to take out as I increase boost?
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Reply with quote  #30 
I would definitely get with an engine builder thats educated in tuning with water meth and varying boost levels and temps.  BUT keep the octane UP until you are sure you have a handle on detonation and then lower your octane a little at a time.
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